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Many Caribbean islands are synonymous with Magic, but the kind found in Martinique is, quite simply, culinary. It is an art practiced by wizardly chefs who can take something very ordinary, like little spiny sea urchins, do secret things to them, and -- with just a whisper of “open sesame” to the oven door -- bring forth a soufflé that is positively spellbinding. It’s what sets Martinique apart from the other Caribbean islands. Here, chefs are seasoned sorcerers; elsewhere, they are apprentices. Magic aside, Martinique also happens to be French, and shows its Frenchness very noticeably through its love affair with good food. Many shops close from noon to 2:30 for the sacrosanct tradition of a copious and leisurely lunch, and dinner is often a gastronomic adventure lasting all evening.
Since local people dine out as a matter of course, visitors to Martinique have one of the widest choices of restaurants in the Caribbean, more than 150. Hotels and better-known spots have menus in English, but many little places do not, so it’s wise to bring along a French phrase book and pocket dictionary.
Many dining rooms offer both French cuisine and Creole, a wondrous mix of African, Indian, European and Caribbean flavors. Others combine the best from both. To classic French dishes, for example, might be added such exotic local fruits and vegetables as guava, soursop, cassava, christophine, breadfruit, okra and plaintain.
Fish is King: On every menu, fish is king, with daily specialties varying according to the morning’s catch. Typical are red snapper, kingfish, sunfish, soudons (small clams), z’habitants or cribiches (fresh water crayfish), lambi (conch), oursin (sea urchin) and langouste (clawless Caribbean lobster). Sometimes the fish is prepared in traditional Creole fashion using piquant spices and herbs, at other times it is served in the more lightly seasoned French style, and often it is a marriage of the two.
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